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History of East Asian Beauty Standards
Kristy Lee – University of Bristol, PhD (School of Education/Research)
Manager, Star Tutors Singapore
Appearance is at the centremost of everyone’s lives, whether they deny it or not, and it’s an unfortunate reality that people have to hear, but certainly not forcefully abide to.
Beauty products have had a surge on social media, and filters and curated images further amplify the need for fitting into a specific beauty standard.
This, as expected, has caused body dissatisfaction and insecurities.
The rise of social media, with its filters and curated images, has further amplified the desire for specific beauty standards, sometimes leading to body dissatisfaction and increased rates of surgery because people can’t fit into this narrow definition of beauty, which is suffocating.
Asian beauty standards have evolved over time, and have a deep, rich history which can explain some of the beauty expectations of today.
So what are beauty standards, what is the history of the evolution of beauty, particularly in East Asia (China, Korea, Japan, Hong Kong, and Japan), and why is the expectation of being “beautiful” so competitive in Asia?
In many East Asian cultures, beauty standards place a strong emphasis on a V-shaped face and a refined jawline.
Of course, not all Asians are obsessed with youth and beauty, because that can’t be true, and this article is more of an analysis of the general depiction of beauty in East Asia throughout history.
Historically, East Asian beauty standards emphasized pale skin (symbolizing nobility), petite and graceful bodies, small facial features, and demure behavior, influenced by Confucianism and class distinctions.
For Asian beauty standards, the whiter the skin, the better. A sun-kissed, tanned look is seen as healthy in some Western countries, but not in Eastern Asian beauty culture; fair skin is deemed the most attractive.
Pale skin has been – and still is – a sign of wealth and status, indicating that a woman did not need to work outdoors, and small features, like a small mouth and feet, are valued.
Most ancient and even Confucian ideals (like female modesty and submissiveness) are relevant today through physical appearances, as delicate bodies are clearly favoured and seen as something to work towards.
Modern-day East Asian beauty now has an emphasis on dewy skin and Korean cosmetic procedures.
Asian beauty standards idealise a petite figure, slim waist, and a slender appearance.
Plus-sized bodies are often overlooked, and having curves and fuller hips are seen as ‘unnatural’ features.
Even idols and the most famous of celebrities in East Asia will be scrutinised for not being “feminine” enough or that they are “too dark”.
Asian beauty standards are certainly more unforgiving of flaws compared to those of Western culture.
Past historical preferences
Beauty standards are shaped by cultural, societal, and historical contexts, which lead to unique ideals across different regions.
Cultural influences have played a significant role in shaping the beauty standards of today, and traditional beauty ideals in Asia are rooted in cultural heritage.
The Four Great Beauties of China helps us understand Chinese beauty history in greater depth.
The Beauties are four women present in Chinese folktales and media.
Wang Zhaojun is said to have been so beautiful that birds would forget to flap their wings and fall out of the sky.
Yang Guifei is said to have made all the flowers hide away in embarrassment when she walked by.
Xi Shi is said to have been so beautiful that when fish saw her reflection in the water, they would forget how to swim and sink to the bottom of the lake.
Diao Chan is said to have been so radiant that the moon itself would hide away in shame upon seeing her.
The representation of each of these Beauties showcases the importance of pale, lighter skin, as each of these goddesses embodies an idealised view of how someone should look.
Oval-shaped faces, delicate skin, and soft features were considered desirable.
Affluent people were able to maintain pale skin because they didn’t have to go out often.
Fair skin became a desirable trait.
Beauty was symbolised as having a similarity with the moon; this concept was prevalent in Chinese culture.
Pale skin
A smooth, fair complexion was and remains a key ideal, historically signifying that a person did not need to work outdoors like peasants, making it a status symbol.
Delicate features
Small lips, narrow eyes, and delicate facial structures were preferred in many East Asian cultures, particularly in China.
Graceful and petite body
A slim, slender, and delicate-looking body was considered graceful and feminine.
Inner and outer beauty
Influenced by philosophies like Confucianism and Taoism, there was a strong connection between inner beauty (virtue) and outward appearance.
Evolution of standards – Tang Dynasty (China)
An oval face, “willow leaf” eyebrows, and long, thin eyes were considered ideal.
Evolution of standards – traditional Korean beauty
A round face and thin lips were admired, with beauty symbolizing status and virtue.
Evolution of standards – Japanese beauty
Figures like the Geisha embody traditional ideals of grace and femininity.
Modern trends: K-Beauty
Today, South Korean beauty ideals feature a “dewy” skin look – smooth, hydrated, clear, and radiant – and a focus on enhancing natural features rather than concealing flaws.
Globalization and Western influence
The internet has accelerated the exchange of beauty ideals, with some sources noting a desire in East Asia for features associated with Western beauty standards.
Cosmetic surgery
The pursuit of specific features, such as smaller noses or a more defined facial structure, is now common, with significant demand for cosmetic procedures.
Evolution of what is considered beautiful in East Asia
Two features were prevalent in Ancient Eastern Asia (Korea, Japan, China) no matter the time or place: pale skin and long eyes.
In the agricultural societies of Asia, this pale skin was a sign of high status as it showed that these women were able to spend time inside cultivating their “womanly skills” rather than outside working in the fields.
In addition, the snow white skin gave a sense of cleanliness and purity which not only emphasized the high status of these women but also made them seem more innocent and docile.
The thin, flat eyes that are now the subject of many racial insults towards Asians, were once respected.
Narrow eyes with a clear distinction between the white black parts represented tender and kind women while large eyes were seen as vacant and the women with them were viewed as hussies, or immoral women.
This view of women showed that while they were objectified and sexualized by society, they were still expected to be educated in literature and intelligent.
Unlike other East Asian cultures, the Chinese, especially the Tang dynasty, valued women who were plump.
This was a sign that they came from affluent families as they could afford to feed them well.
In Ancient Japan, women’s beauty standards varied greatly.
Much like China, round chins and wide shoulders were admired, because, similarly, being plumper was a symbol of wealth.
What is interesting, however, is that there are many Japanese beauty standards that seem to be in direct opposition of Chinese beauty standards.
During Japan’s Heian period, long hair was valued among women, perhaps in opposition to China’s trend of short hair and updos at that time.
Unlike Chinese women who were expected to have certain skills of a diligent housewife, a Japanese woman’s beauty could be augmented through her ability to sing; women who had the ability to sing were perceived as more beautiful than those that couldn’t.
In addition, the picture of docility was not always revered in Japanese beauty; during the Kamakura period, strong and active women were looked up to rather than those who stayed at home.
Slowly, this extravagant use of makeup and fashion died down to a more natural faced trend.
Cosmetic sales continued to soar, however, as makeup was now used to help women achieve this natural, clean faced, innocent look.
Similar to China and Japan, Korea valued a round face and thin lips influenced by the role of status.
While beauty was a symbol of status in China and Japan, it was even more so in Korea.
Women of the upper class would always have their hair well kept and makeup on.
Those in lower classes also did so but were unable to do so to the same caliber.
In addition, it was believed that good souls were held in beautiful bodies.
As a result, women always made sure that they looked their best.
After the discovery of lead powder, the creation of cosmetics became much easier and much more extravagant.
As a result, Koreans became obsessed with cosmetics and beauty.
Though makeup became much more accessible to different groups of people, it was still a sign of status as only those rich enough and those with enough time that could make sure to do their hair and makeup well everyday.
Beauty standards in Communist China and North Korea
Meanwhile, beauty standards in Communist China and North Korea were very different.
Since the collective and hard work were celebrated, tan and strong individuals who were all dressed in very similar colors, the opposite of what was valued in Ancient China, were praised.
Everyone wore a uniform of very the same colors everyday and there was not a lot of makeup lying around.
Despite this, women found ways to express themselves through their hair.
K-Beauty
From the harmonious elegance of Silla to the refined simplicity of Joseon, each era contributed to shaping modern Korean beauty ideals that emphasize balance, natural refinement, and meticulous care.
During the Silla Dynasty, the ideology of young-yook-il-chi-sa-sang emphasized the harmony of physical beauty and inner virtue, with the belief that a beautiful body housed a beautiful soul.
Gold accessories symbolized beauty and prestige, while historical texts like Samguk Yusa highlighted attractive physical traits, such as glowing skin, as markers of leadership and virtue, underscoring the importance of skincare and grooming across genders.
In the Goryeo Dynasty, elegance and clear skin became central to beauty ideals, with lighter makeup and advanced skincare routines reflecting a focus on natural refinement.
South Korean beauty standards have prioritised the maintenance of youth and looking as young as possible.
The traditional Korean beauty standards emphasize a combination of specific physical features that reflect societal ideals of perfection.
These include pale, flawless skin, a v-shaped face, double eyelids, plump lips, and a high, straight nose bridge, often considered the epitome of beauty in South Korea.
Today, K-beauty is one of the most popular beauty standards both in the Asian world and in the Western world.
Beautiful, slim girls with tiny waists, large eyes, long brown hair, double eyelids, delicate bone structure, and pale skin are revered.
Though this standard is so different from the one present in East Asia 500 years ago, it still carries many of the same cultural connotations with it.
The large eyes, delicate bone structure, and pale skin that are so sought after create an image of delicacy and innocence much like they did in Ancient China.
This new standard of beauty continues to perpetuate the stereotype and cultural view that women are meant to sit prettily at home and be sexualized by men.
In addition, beauty continues to have a classist connotation as those with enough money will pay to get work done so they fit the mold of beauty perfectly, while those who cannot afford to spend this money will be considered “less beautiful”.
Is beauty attainable?
No beauty standard is realistic nor achievable, so why have them?
If individuals do not keep up with the standards that are expected within their own cultural circles, they will “be accused of “letting themselves go”.
This societal pressure to meet beauty standards applies to women and men.
Similar to the women’s beauty standard, a high nose bridge, smooth white skin, muscular, big eyes, and a small face with a v-shaped chin are preferred as acceptable standards of male attractiveness.
Regardless of which standards someone abides to, comparing ourselves to an unrealistic depiction is damaging to our confidence and own self-worth, especially when the standard is nearly impossible to achieve.
These beauty standards shape individual choices and reflect broader cultural values that prioritize physical appearance as a measure of success and self-worth.
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